Tek Sen, Penang

This is deep-fried pieces of boneless chicken coated in a crispy shell of batter, covered in mayonnaise straight from the jar. It’s a dish that the world’s food writers conveniently overlook when they heap well-deserved praise on restaurant Tek Sen in Penang because it doesn’t fit the clean narrative of tradition or authenticity that drives… Continue reading Tek Sen, Penang

Parachute Foodblogging 2: Restoran Nasi Kandar KL

Kuala Lumpur is the perfect town for stopover eating: parachuting into town for the few hours between flights. I’ve done it once before but this time was a bit more of a nostalgia trip. For me, breakfast in KL is synonymous with nasi kandar; Malaysian Tamil Muslim food from a cheap restaurant, leaden curries matched… Continue reading Parachute Foodblogging 2: Restoran Nasi Kandar KL

Gong Xi Fa Cai, Rendang

Another year, another chance for lion dancers to molest the unwary. The risk of a lion dancer catching aflame grows each year. The hanging iceberg lettuce attracts them. Welcome to the Chinese New Year. I had a vague plan to hit up some dumpling joints but was derailed by a newish Malaysian place: Old Town… Continue reading Gong Xi Fa Cai, Rendang

Great balls of chicken rice

The apparent simplicity of Hainanese chicken rice is what makes it an addictive comfort food. It looks like simple steamed chicken and with fatty, chicken stock-cooked rice but is so fecund in people’s memories at it is impossible to begin to judge it. There are objectively bad plates of chicken rice replete with ropy strands… Continue reading Great balls of chicken rice

The last ditch

Saturday night market in Little India, Kuala Lumpur If you could choose your last meal in a country, what would it be? It’s a much more concrete question than some imagined last supper: unless you’re on death row or about to commit suicide then chances are you’ll have no power over the menu for your… Continue reading The last ditch

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